Sebring Repair Continues

3/8" square drive adjustable automatic torque wrench, 

similar to but not the same as the one I used to have.

Didn't subscribe to the online manual this time since it was so frigging useless last time, but I still needed the torque settings for the head bolts and the cam bearings, so I decided to just post them here (and here), after all that's where everything else goes.

8. Tighten cam bearing cap bolts gradually in sequence shown in (Fig. 25) to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
9. Install secondary chain tensioner bolts and tighten to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).



    Couldn't find my smaller torque wrench, the one with the 3/8" square drive, so we just tightened them up tight. Haven't seen the little torque wrench in a long time. I am afraid I may have gotten rid of it during one of my of "I ain't workin' on cars no more" fits.

    Stripped the threads for one bolt hole in the head. This was for one tensioners, not for one of bearings. It looked like about a 6mm screw, just a little smaller than a 1/4 inch, so I ran a 1/4-20 tap in the hole and put in an American bolt and it held. Messy, and not exactly kosher, but good enough. 

    Found a lot of aluminum particles on the inside of the bearing caps. These bolts are really tough to loosen, I had to buy a new socket for this job last time. I think we may be approaching the limits of what the aluminum can take, so everytime you tighten the bolts you generate flakes of aluminum. These flakes are trapped in the hole and cause no trouble until you take the bolts out and then you get a virtual snowfall. I dumped them in a box when we pulled them off, so any debris that came out with the bolts was free to spread onto all oily surfaces, which included the bearings. That's my theory anyway.