I Bought a Cheap Cadillac Escalade at Auction and Found a GOLD MINE inside the Engine!
Samcrac
Silicon Forest
If the type is too small, Ctrl+ is your friend
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A Young People's History of the United States by Howard Zinn
4.1 rating on Goodread |
While I was waiting for the flat to be fixed I notice a couple of books in the office. Don't often see books in auto repair joints, or maybe I just never noticed. Anyway, I'm always looking for something new to read, hoping I will find something that will grab me. So I take a couple of pics. It's quicker and easier than writing it down and the camera doesn't forget.
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The Perfect Girl: A Novel by Gilly Macmillan
3.7 rating on Goodreads |
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| Cheap Amazon Tire Pressure Gauge |
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| J.R. Oregon Tires & Auto Care |
Daughter got a flat tire this morning while she was driving up West Burnside road on the way out of Portland. Hit something hard, probably a pothole. She tried to fix it herself but immediately ran into a problem when she couldn't loosen the wingnut that was securing the jack in the trunk. So I got called to assist. She was right, the wing nut was tight. I couldn't loosen it until I applied some Channellock pliers. I know who the guilty culprit is. He tightens everything super tight. Now we need to get to the lug nuts. The YouTube video she has pulled up has mag wheels while she has steel wheels and hub caps. So the lug nuts are behind the hubcap. Lugnuts revealed, she tries to loosen one. No go. She stands on the end of the wrench. Bounces. Still no go. I stand on the wrench and bounce and my heftier weight (double hers) does the trick. That was the toughest one. Thanks, Costco. She was able to break loose the rest of them.
Got the tire changed and looked around for someplace to get it fixed (it's Sunday) and find J.R. Oregon Tires & Auto Care in Beaverton. It took him maybe 15 minutes to fix the tire and only charged $20. I call it a deal.
Now I'm on Google Maps looking for Streetview images of this place. The one at the top is the first and it doesn't really give a good view of the place.
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| Union 76 |
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| J.R. Oregon Tires & Auto Care |
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| The Culprit |
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| 2022 Ferrari 296 GTB |
| Star Wars Echo Base |
| New Common Rail System (From the left: fuel pump, injector, and common rail) |
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| CRAFTSMAN Craftsman 3 Ton Garage Jack |
A couple of weeks ago we started hearing this rainstick noise coming from under right hand side of the dashboard whenever we made a left hand turn. There is a known problem with one of the flaps inside the heater duct, and I figured it had broken loose and whenever we turned a corner, it would flop over and rub against the fan. But it sure sounded like running water. There was no leak inside the car, so it was baffling.
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| Blower with motor cooling duct popped open |
Finally decided to take the glove box out yesterday to see if I could locate the problem. Along the way I found that the blower is easily accessible from the passenger footwell. Seemed to be a little wetness there, and when I popped open the hatch on the blower's cooling ducts I found signs of rust. So there's been water in here.
A little Googling turns up a likely culprit: the drain hole for the air conditioning evaporator. (That's the small radiator that sits inside the ductwork inside the passenger compartment. It doesn't really radiate anything, it's more of an anti-radiator.) Okay, that's enough for today, I'll finish this tomorrow.
This morning I've got an appointment first thing and at the first corner I turn, a pint of water comes out of the hole where the blower was and dumps in the passenger footwell. More water comes out every time I turn left. The water had stopped coming out by the time I got home.
I tried locating the drain hole yesterday, but I'm too thick to slide under the car, and the driver's side was too close to the wall to allow easy access, so today I moved the car to the center of the garage and drove up on a couple of wood blocks.
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| Looking straight up from the ground. Firewall at the top, engine bay at the bottom. A/C drain hole is small, rusty slot in the upper left, just below the black smudge marks. |
Now I can slide underneath and I am able to locate the drain hole. It's not very big, maybe a sixteenth of an inch by about half an inch. I stick a thin metal stick up there and root around. The stick can go in an inch or two before it runs into a solid barrier. Nothing comes out, but it seems like it might be little clearer.
Now I can put the blower back in. It was no problem getting it out, a Torx T-25 screwdriver worked just fine, but now I'm trying to put it back and things aren't going well. One of the things I've heard about Torx is that they aren't too particular about size. A driver for one size should work with screws that are a little bigger or a little smaller. Didn't work in this case. The T-25 had a hard time staying engaged. The T-15 worked until I started to apply some torque and then it slipped. Fine. The screws are also slotted, so with a straight bladed screwdriver I was able to get them tight.
I probably have a T-20 bit somewhere, but looking for it is an iffy proposition. It might be here, in which case I should be able to find it, but it might be on the moon in which case looking for it will be a waste of time. And looking for it means climbing up and down the stairs to the basement and I'm already feeling the strain of this operation. I pressed on with what I had.
The insulation on the underdash sound barrier and the passenger floor mat were pretty well soaked, so they are drying in the sun. It's kind of cool today, so it may be a while before we find out if I actually fixed the problem.
This wasn't a big project. There are six screws holding the underdash panel and just three holding the blower, but they were under the dash, so I'm down on my knees with my head and arms stuck in the footwell trying to turn screws, screws that I can just barely see. It's awkward in the extreme. An electric screwdriver might have come in handy, if it was small enough to get in there. Plus I would have needed the correct Torx bit (see above). Anyway, it was exhausting. On the plus side I got a good nap and now I feel like I've put in a hard days work.
I had a dream this morning that included a longish, jumbled preamble that I don't remember very clearly, but now I'm riding shotgun in my wife's Mitsubishi Endeavor. My dad, who has been dead for ten years or so, is driving. We're on our way to the automobile dealer's service department. We aren't going to the same place that I went to in the jumbled preamble, this time we are going to the actual service department. We pull into a large white prefab metal building. The interior is laid out like a parking lot with spaces for fifty to a hundred cars or so. Nobody is working on cars here, this is just the holding area, the actual work is being done in an adjacent area. My dad talks to the service writer and parks the car. I get out and see the service writer heading towards the door. I intercept him and start telling him about the car's problems, which include a screwed up window regulator in the front passenger side door and a seriously malfunctioning right front brake. In my mind these were real problems that happened about a year ago. They were caused by a damaged body control module located somewhere under the front passenger seat. But now I'm telling the service writer that these problems have gone away and he's asking me why I am telling him about them now if they aren't problems anymore. I don't have an answer for that, and now I am wondering where I got the idea that these problems were real. I'm awake now and I still have the feeling that those were real problems, but I know they aren't problems now, and I have no recollection of how they got fixed, which means they were imaginary problems, but man, the memory sure felt real. Never mind that there is no computer module where my memory was telling me it was.
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| Tire Wear Bars Yes, that's about what my tires looked like. |
Back to real life. It's spring and that means it's time to change the oil in the cars. I took the car to Clays a couple of weeks ago and because it's time to renew the license plates, I had them run the DEQ (Department of Environmental Quality) emissions test as well. They changed oil and ran the test no problem, but they noticed a few things that could stand to be replaced, like the tires, rear brakes and battery. Hmm. They told me the same thing six months ago. At that time the brakes were down to 4mm (millimeters) but now they are down to 2mm so maybe it is time to replace them. The wear bars in the tires are definitely showing and the battery is over four years old, so maybe it's time to take it to Les Schwab.
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| Low Tire Pressure Indicator |
The low-tire-pressure indicator has been on almost constantly for years, and the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) indicator (which is just the four letter acronym) has been lighting up the last year or two or five, I don't recall. Clays wants $150 to diagnose the TPMS system. $150 to plug in your diagnostic computer and tell me that the system is broken? I don't think so. I do a little checking and it turns out that the tire pressure sensors on this Mitsubishi have batteries that are supposed to last ten years. The car is 15 years old. Think maybe the batteries have died? So I go looking for batteries.
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| Tire Pressure Sensor |
Turns out the batteries are not replaceable, you simply replace the entire sensor which is an assembly that includes the valve stem. Since it is time for tires, probably ought to get those sensors replaced as well. Funny no one has recommended replacing those sensors before, or maybe I just don't remember. Tires last for years now. Sensors can be had for around $20 a piece, but Les only installs parts they supply and they want $70 each. Still, if this turns off the warning lights and without having to pay a diagnostic fee it will be worth it. (This a pretty sad state of affairs, paying $300 to turn off a couple indicator lights. Gawd I hate his safety shit.)
I take the car to Les, they keep it for a day and a half, and they care of all the problems except the battery, which is fine because I think the battery has at least another six months of life left. I base this on the fact that batteries seem to last about five years now. Used to be, back in good old days, batteries would fail slowly. They'd lose their charge, you could get a boost and now and again and maybe get a few more days,(weeks, months?) out of them. Now they die and that's it. One minute they are fine and the next minute, boom, they're dead. If you can predict their failure and replace the battery before it dies, you can avoid having a pissed off spouse, so I'm living dangerously.
The prices at Les Schwab were kind of interesting. The tires and brake pads were surprisingly low. The price for the rear shocks and installation struck me as excessively high. I suppose if they are giving away brake pads they need to make up for it somewhere else. Anyway, it was a one stop shop and I didn't have to lift a finger other to pull out my credit card, which was declined because the credit card company had sent me a new one even though this one wasn't expired. It still works everywhere else, but apparently only for penny-ante transactions.
P.S. I mailed in the license renewal form two weeks ago. I just called to check on it and the robo-cop tells me 'don't even think about calling back for four months'.
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| Clackamas DEQ station inspector Doug Hatfield uses a mirror to look under a vehicle. - Boyd/The Oregonian |
If you live the Portland, Oregon metropolitan area, your car has to pass an emissions test before you can renew your vehicle registration (license plates). The DEQ (Oregon Department of Environmental Quality) handles the testing. They are not the same as the DMV (Department of Motor Vehicles), who handle the registration.
It used to be that you had to drive to a DEQ test facility and they would inspect and test your car. Back in the bad old days (25 years ago?) it was quite an ordeal. They had rollers embedded in the floor of the test station, kind of like a dynamometer. You drive in until the drive wheels are on the rollers. They would look under the hood and look under the car using a mirror, stick a probe up the tail pipe, then you put the car in drive and step on the gas until the big meter hanging on the wall says 1500 and hold it there for a minute. Then, if your car passed, which most modern cars did, they collected your money, stamped your paperwork, handed over the precious stickers and sent you on your way.
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| ODB-II Connector and Pinout |
Later, when automakers had gotten the computer controls sorted out, they dispensed with the visual inspections and physical testing and simply plugged their computer into the diagnostic port in your car. The computers did their little robotic handshake / dance and then you went through the paper and payment process as before.
This year we have a new deal: DEQ Too. Now you don't have to go to the actual DEQ test facility, you can take your car to your local shop, and if they are connected, they can do the DEQ test right there.
My wife's car needed an oil change, so I took it Clays Auto Service and they ran the test for which they charged me $25. Now all I need to do is go online and I can complete the registration, and here's where things went south.
I go to the website and I pay the DEQ fee (what? Didn't I just pay that? No, silly, that was the other DEQ fee.), then I have to go through this annoying identification procedure with the DMV only to find out that I cannot renew the registration because it is not my car. It's my wife's car. WTF. Fine, get my wife and all her magic numbers, and try again, and now my credit card is declined. Double WTF. Double fine, double trouble, double, bubble, toil and trouble, I'll just write a check and mail in the form. Ha, silly boy, not that simple. To do that you need a DEQ certificate. Great, there is no such animal. Only the great DEQ computer in the sky knows that the car has passed the test, and it isn't telling nobody nothin'.
Stay tuned for part two, wherein this situation is resolved or I am hauled off to the loonie bin.