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Saturday, September 4, 2021

Mitsubishi Rainstick Update


Clogged Heater Core Replacement
EZElookout

This video is just for reference.

CRAFTSMAN Craftsman 3 Ton Garage Jack

After the first go round with this problem, I decided I needed to get the car up high enough to really get under it. Driving up on a couple of blocks helped, but it wasn't enough, so I bought a floor jack. I used to have one I got from Costco, but I sold it a few years when I decided I wasn't going to be working on cars anymore. However, getting this problem fixed at a repair shop is liable to run $1,000. (See above video to get an idea of the scope of the work involved.) If I can unplug the drain, then I can avoid the thousand dollar repair bill, for a while anyway.

I took one stab at it, but I wasn't able to access the drain. The photo in the last post is like the drain for the drain. The real drain is hidden. Today, I got Osmany to give me a hand. He is a talented guy. If anyone can fish a wire into the drain, he can. I don't whether he did or not, but we didn't get any water out of the drain. But we haven't heard anymore water noises since the last go round either. The weather has been a little cooler, but still, we should be getting some condensation. Our best guess is that draining the water out through the blower dislodged whatever was clogging the drain and everything is working properly now.

We took out the glovebox and removed the side panels off the center console, but all that did was show us how far the A/C box was buried in the dash. I did find a description of how to remove it, but it's like the instructions for replacing the heater core in our old Ford Fairmont. Step 1: Remove the dashboard. I did that once and I don't relish doing it again.



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